Block to Toile - Construction

T.D.3.1 Make and adapt simlple flat patterns for unstructured clothing and other products
T.D.3.4 Make simple calico models.
T.M.3.5  Use fabrication and manipulation techniques (e.g. darts)
T.M.3.6 Use knowledge of fabric constructiongrain, strain and loads in designing and making.
T.M.3.10 Make edge finishes


Block - Foundation pattern cut to a standard size.
          - Enable the designer to render something flat into something three-dimensional.
          - Constructured using measurements taken from a size chart or live model.
          - Do not show any style lines or seams.
Toile  - The made up pattern to check proportions and shape.
Pattern Adaption - Altering the block to fit your design.
Seam Allowance - 1.5cm (or appropriate value) added to pattern for the seam.
Dart Manipulation - Darts control excess fabric to create shape on a garment.
                            - Stitched together end to end, or to a zero point (pivotal point)
                            - Can be turned into pleats gathers or style lines
Seam Finishes - The raw edge of a seam allowance ususally needs treating to stop it from fraying.
        - Overlock - Cheapest and easiest. Three or four-thread coverstitch machine.
        - French Seams - Seam and seam finish in one. More time consuming, more expensive.


1. Draw round chosen block straight onto chosen material. At this stage only half the waistcoat will need to be constructed. A cheap and easy material to work with is Calico.
(Make sure to mark all points, including darts to make it easier to sew accurately.)

2. Sew together the block to create a very basic shaped toile.

3. Shape your toild to the design you have created. You can cut/add/shape material in any way you wish. The state of the material is irrelevent as long as you have created the shape and structure you desire.

4. Draw round the block again, using pencil, but this time onto pattern paper.

5. Unpick your manipulated toile including the darts. Lay on top of pattern paper matching up the waistline, bustline and dart points.

6. Draw round your manipulated toile over the outline of the block you have previously drawn. Rub out basic block lines.  

7. Add seam allowance around your final toile pattern and label. Make sure to add in the centre back grainline to make it easier and accurate when cutting out your material.

8. For the back of your toile, fold a piece of calico in half and line the grainline on the fold. Pin down and cut around the pattern.

9. To mark in the waistline, bustline and dart points without marking the material, you must use 'tailors tack'.  

10. Remove the paper pattern, making sure to not remove the tailors tack.

11. Repeat the same method for the front pattern piece and repeat again so you have two front pieces.

12. Sew in darts using your tailors tak as a guide.

13. Pin and tack the front pattern pieces to the back pattern piece, right  sides together, making sure to align the waistline and bustline with the marked points.

14. Sew down along the 1.5cm seam line. Make sure to reinforce each edge of the stitch by reverse stitching.

15. Here is your basic toile. Fit it to the mannequin or body you have designed it for and make any adjusments needed. You can make as many alterations and as many toiles as you need until you have the desired final fit.